Vato
the new burrito hot spot in my very own Park Slope!
Slowly and then all of a sudden, New York City became obsessed with tortillas. Perhaps it began a year or so ago, with the emergence of Border Town, which recently opened its first brick-and-mortar shop in Greenpoint. Or even before that, when Yellow Rose in the East Village appeared towards the end of 2020. These days, the vessel for tacos, burritos, and quesadillas has seemingly become more important than the fillings. The newest venture into the flour tortilla wars is in my very own neighborhood of Park Slope. Vato is the new casual daytime bakery offshoot of the Michelin-starred Corima. Fidel Caballero, the chef and owner of both restaurants, knew the popularity of Corima’s superb sourdough tortilla could support the venture of Vato. Having gone multiple times, I can assure readers that it is an incredible addition to the neighborhood and worthy of this week’s best.
New York City has long been behind the curve with Mexican cooking in the US. It has blossomed in the last two decades due to the immigrants from the Mexican states of Puebla, Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Guanajuato who migrated to New York City during the 1980s and 1990s. We’re indebted to those who came to the city and were willing to share their family recipes, spreading the joy of Mexican flavors and cooking. Traditionally, flour tortillas are made with flour, salt, lard, water, and, sometimes, baking powder to help them rise. But at Vato, they’re a little different. The sourdough flour tortillas are made with whole wheat flour, bread flour, and butter, instead of lard. The result is a pliable, slightly tangy tortilla with a rich buttery flavor.
At Vato, the fillings are also of note. I’ve tried four of the six burritos offered and have already made plans to return and try the rest. The one that stuck out the most was the pollo en mole. Luscious and messy, it is full of succulent pulled chicken, drowned in an earthy, bittersweet mole negro sauce. That, paired with the chewy tortilla, made for a perfect bite. I also really enjoyed their burnt ends egg & cheese burrito with hickory-mesquite smoked brisket pieces, pillowy soft scrambled eggs, and melty cheddar cheese. The burnt ends were full of flavor and paired well with the rest of the ingredients in the burrito, perfect for a quick breakfast or brunch. Their verde with pork shoulder, potatoes, and salsa verde was also impressive, and I personally loved their mushroom burrito with mozzarella, chorizo, and lime. I apologize for the lack of photographic evidence in this post, but they were just too good to pause to snap a shot.
Other offerings include a variety of pastries, such as rotating donut flavors, conchas stuffed with yuzu curd, churros, cinnamon rolls, cookies, and more. The yuzu concha was fluffy and crunchy thanks to the craquelin top, and the curd was the standout. Albeit slightly less impressive than the burritos, I’d be interested to try the other pastries, especially the cinnamon roll drenched in frosting. The café also has a variety of coffee offerings, rounding out the menu.
Of Vato, simplicity is the key. The burritos are not stuffed to the brim with different ingredients. Rather, they are comprised of two or three high-quality fillings. Nothing overpowers the other. Lines have gone down over the last few weeks, and you might even spot a celebrity if you visit as I did (you’ll have to ask me to find out who!). There is some indoor seating squeezed in the back, and a lovely-looking porch for the warmer weather. It is already a well-oiled machine, with burritos coming out five to ten minutes after being ordered, even on days with lines out the door. You can even go just to grab a bunch of their tortillas as they’re selling them ten at a time. Although Vato’s initial plan was to add dinner service to their 7am-3pm hours, they’ve paused this addition for the time being. I’m so happy they’re a part of my neighborhood and will be stopping in as much as possible. I encourage everyone to do the same!
To Note: Part of this column reflects on the vital role immigrants play as a foundational force in the United States. I would be remiss if I did not acknowledge the horrific events in Minnesota and the broader realities unfolding across our country. I’ve included resources below and encourage readers to consider donating or exploring ways to support those affected.
https://www.2harvest.org
https://www.tcfoodjustice.org
https://www.standwithminnesota.com