Finding a perfect restaurant might seem like an impossible goal to most. Having worked in the industry for two summers, I cannot claim to be an expert, but that experience taught me how tough it is to run an establishment. Not to mention a successful one. I often find myself comparing it to working in the movie business. The number of people involved, the hyper-specific roles of each person, and the time and effort that go into a finished product that the audience or diners receive are all similarities. Additionally, the people who enjoy the result of all the hard work have no idea what has been accomplished by those in the kitchen or on set to make it possible. Much of the magic happens behind the scenes, as they say.
For a restaurant to rise above, the food must not only be incredible, but so does the service. Working as a busser, I learned the rhythms of turning over tables. How soon to come over and offer water service, followed up quickly bringing warm bread and butter to the table, keeping an eye on water levels, clearing rounds of dishes when everyone has finished, and finally, after they exit the building, flipping their table as quickly as possible. Since I worked at a more high-end restaurant, as I got more comfortable in the job, I also made sure to replace any fallen utensils in an instant and fold napkins if a guest got up to go to the bathroom. Working with the runners and servers, we created an unspoken language, something like what you might see in a show like The Bear. We didn’t pass notes per se, but we understood each other through expressions and mere suggestions. In my opinion, exceptional service can make or break a meal – no matter how good the food is, if the service is bad, it can ruin an entire dinner. Out of all the places I’ve been in New York City over the last few years, there is only one place I think is perfect, and it is the subject of this week’s best. The name of the restaurant is Place des Fêtes.
Place des Fêtes is a self-proclaimed wine bar with a French name but specializes in Spanish wine. The idea of a “wine bar” has become more popular over the last few years, but it can seemingly apply to any place with a brief menu, an open kitchen, and a sommelier who leans into natural wines for some reason. I’m unsure if the last statement rings true for the wine list at Place des Fêtes, as I honestly don’t recognize a single bottle they offer. Liam, who is much better versed in wine than I, also was surprised by the list. He recognized a few, mainly the ones from the Canary Islands, but we put ourselves at the mercy of the sommelier, who took the time to visit most tables in the restaurant. He didn’t disappoint, and since that first visit, I’ve just asked what the wines are like to determine my preference for glass or bottle.
Speaking of our first visit, I knew from the moment we sat down that we were in for a great meal. The restaurant has a warm glow, lit by candles and soft pendant lights. The exposed brick walls and sleek wooden furnishings create a rustic and inviting atmosphere. The moment we sat down, a server came over to offer a half-glass of champagne on the house, subtly suggesting he knew we were celebrating a birthday. I was astounded at this. The only hint to a birthday was on the Resy reservation I made, where I checked a box saying the occasion was for a birthday. I’ve done this numerous times, and never once has a restaurant taken it upon itself to do something like this. And it wasn’t a fluke. The next time I dined at PDF, it was for my own birthday. And again, the complimentary champagne was poured. On top of that, a handwritten note had been placed on our table, stating how happy the restaurant was that we’d chosen to celebrate with them. Little things like that really set PDF apart.
I’ve never tried any of their cocktails, but they have a few classic offerings on their menu. I always gravitate toward the wines. I like to start with a glass of sparkling and then move on to white. Depending on the type of night or if I’m there for a special occasion, I’ll maybe throw in a glass of red or a dessert beverage. They bring the bottle over for you to taste and really care if you like it or not. I’ve been able to change my mind after a sip, and immediately, they’ll follow it up with another suggestion. This past fall – when celebrating a move and the completion of an intense job, my mom and dad joined Liam and me at PDF. It was their first time there, and I was so excited to bring them to my favorite restaurant in the city. It did not disappoint. They both love food, and their passion for great meals was instilled in my sister and me. My mother, in particular, loved a white wine from the producer Ramiro Ibañez. It was unlike anything any of us had tasted.
This trend of new flavors continues throughout the food menu. Most wine bar’s menus feature the same few items. They tend to feature oysters, meats and cheeses, some salads, and perhaps a burger for a more substantial option. PDF takes these norms and runs with them. Their menu is split into four parts: FROID/CHILLED, FERMENTÉ/CULTURED, LÉGUME/VEGATABLES, and PLATS PRINCIPAUX/MAIN COURSES. The specific dishes change with the seasons, but there are a select few that are mainstays.
Under the FROID/CHILLED section, the Bang Island mussels are always there – which sauce they’re smothered in, however, shifts. I’ve had them both with the squid ink and the verde and cannot pick a favorite. I don’t even like mussels normally and find this dish to be one of the most interesting and delicate accomplishments. Imagine the highest quality mussels stuffed with micro minced raw shallots and covered in either an inky black sauce or a bright pastel green with pools of olive oil adjoining. The result is a tangy and acidic amalgamation of chilled flavors. There’s also a rotating crudo dish, some type of tartar, and their well-known sardine toast (not for me, but still very good).
Moving onto FERMENTÉ/CULTURED. This is where you’ll find the customary meats and cheeses. But at PDF, they rise above. And I hate to tell you that you must order their bread, but you do. The dark, thick slabs of sourdough come with the most delicious olive oil, and you use it as a vehicle for whatever meat or cheese you choose and a way to sop up the leftover sauce from your mussels. They often serve country ham as a special, but my meat of choice is the mortadella. Thin as paper, it melts immediately in your mouth and is often one of the most sought-after dishes on the table. Whatever cheese is available is also probably very good, but I tend to skip it in favor of multiple dishes from the next two sections.
LÉGUME/VEGATABLES is an area where PDF soars. Here is where I’ll talk about one of my all-time favorite dishes I’ve had. The crispy maitake mushroom with black garlic fudge. My sister, who claims to dislike mushrooms, has since admitted how this changed her mind and begs to order them whenever possible. The mushrooms are breaded in a tempura-like substance, creating a delicate film over the oddly shaped fungi. They’re crisp on the outside and juicy on the inside. When paired with the decadent black garlic fudge (which, honestly, I don’t know how I can begin to describe this accoutrement), it creates a unique balance of flavors of the likes I’ve never tasted before. They’re addicting. The other plates under this header tend to switch around the most. I’ve had charred sugar snap peas over a bed of foamy smoked haddock, potato mochi dumplings in a buttermilk sauce with peas and lima beans, and springtime asparagus with ramps and trout roe. Did I mention I HATE peas? Ever since I was little and with a passion. But, for some reason, at PDF, I trust them enough to order them and have yet to be disappointed.
Lastly the PLATS PRINCIPAUX/MAIN COURSES. Usually, this part of the menu is comprised of a pasta, meat, and fish dish, much like this week’s best from two weeks ago – Bar Bête. This isn’t the only similarity between the two restaurants. The vibe, level of service, and quality of food are also of the same vein, as well as having a dessert item that is truly worth it. PDF edges it out barely. However, this section sometimes does not stand up to the rest. I’ve found that the dishes I’ve ordered are all really good but rarely great. The mafaldine pasta was solid, and so was the grilled pork collar – if either of those are on the menu when you go, I’d ask for them. The bone-in skate wing was less impressive despite high praise from The New Yorker. It didn’t have the depth of flavor the rest of the meal offered. The lamb with spiced green harissa and fresh house-made pita was too spicy and overbearing despite enjoying the baseline taste. Alas, one cannot be absolutely perfect.
But you know what is? PDF’s choux craquelin offering for dessert. This pastry is notoriously tricking to get right. It consists of a choux, a pastry that puffs up similarly to a cream puff or profiterole when baked in the oven. The craquelin is the topping – a thin cookie-like dough that sits atop the choux and, when baked, breaks apart, coating the top of the choux with a crackly layer that both decorates and provides a sweet, crunchy texture to the pastry. The filling and flavor of the choux rotates, and I’ve had three different ones, all better than the last. I’ve had a soba cha (buckwheat tea) flavored choux with a vanilla cream and concord grape filling. Most recently, my sister and I had citrus choux with vanilla cream and rhubarb/citrus filling. And finally, my favorite is the chocolate choux with a chocolate cream and miso caramel filling. I can’t get over this dessert. Yes, there are others on the menu, but I always forgo them to get my beloved. I find that more and more dessert offerings tend to disappoint, but I can guarantee this is not the case here. Their dessert wine/beverage options are also outstanding.
With that, I’ve closed out my musings on Place des Fêtes. But I’ll never shut up about it. I sent my bosses there for a special meal at my last job, and I told everyone I knew about it. I even talked about it so much that as a wrap gift on Sirens, my boss gave me a gift card for it. This is because I really think the restaurant deserves oodles of praise. It is exceptional in every way. Either for a few glasses of wine at the bar, some snacks in the early evening, or for a special meal. The prices aren’t cheap but for the quality of food and service you’re receiving I believe they’re worth it. If you ever want to try and find yourself needing a dinner date, just know I’ll never say no to Place des Fêtes.
Love this! Reminds me of the Mortadella Focaccia sandwich recipe I adapted from L.A.-based Roman cuisine restaurant Mother Wolf for easy home cooking!
check it out:
https://thesecretingredient.substack.com/p/recreating-evan-funkes-la-mortazza